5 Tips for More Snowdrop Blooms Every Year
Snowdrops beckon spring with easy elegance. The early-flowering bulbs invigorate the frosty landscape with fresh greens and pure white bells. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in how to grow our snowdrop colonies for added enchantment each year.

Contents
Snowdrops appear through the frosty ground in late winter, bringing spring’s renewal to the scene with their crisp white, delicate bell blooms on fresh green stems and faint honey perfume. With varieties from ‘Giant’ with larger bells on taller stems to ‘Viridi-apice’ with a clean dash of green, the detailed selections inspire a closer look and are sweetest in numbers.
Snowdrops are among the earliest of the spring-flowering bulbs and appear in February or March but sometimes as soon as January. Their durable nature belies their delicate appeal, and in their optimal growing conditions, they perennialize and colonize with little tending.
By choosing the right site and providing the appropriate post-bloom care, we can foster a thriving colony of graceful blooms to delight each season. Snowdrops grow beautifully in drifts along walkways, border fronts, and woodland edges, where they gently naturalize for a sweep of easy elegance. They also form lovely pockets of seasonal interest in pots and containers.
Snowdrops Overview

The snowdrop genus (Galanthus) houses nearly twenty species and hundreds of cultivars. Native to Europe and southwest Asia, their native range is cool and mountainous with woodlands and alpine meadows. One of the most readily available species is Galanthus nivalis, or common snowdrops, with four-inch long leaves and one-inch bell blooms.
Common snowdrops are hardy in USDA zones 3-8, where they produce solitary blooms in single or double forms. The distinguishing feature of G. nivalis is green markings on the notch of the inner petal tip and mossy brushes on the outer petals. Deep green foliage contrasts the bright blooms, with three to four blades per bulb.
Diminutive in stature, snowdrops bring the greatest impact in groups. Plant them among groundcovers, spring ephemerals, and cool-season annuals. Pair them with other late winter and early spring-flowering bulbs like winter aconite, glory of the snow, and early daffodils like ‘Tête-a-Tête.’
Provide Winter Chill

If you want more snowdrop blooms, you must remember that these perennial bulbs need a winter chill period of 10 to 12 weeks near 20°F (-7°C) for vigorous growth and flowering. Early fall is the best time for planting to allow natural exposure. Plant them when soil temperatures begin to cool. Ideal nighttime temperatures for planting are in the 40s and 50s (4-10°C).
To grow bulbs in containers or to “force” them for indoor flowering, aim for October as a good time to pot them up.
Choose the Best Site

Snowdrops grow best in organically rich, well-draining soils with regular moisture. The adaptable perennials tolerate lesser soil types, including clay, though prolonged saturation is detrimental to their roots. They generally don’t need supplemental irrigation with average seasonal moisture.
A hearty layer of compost helps improve soil nutrition, aeration, and drainage. Topdress to incorporate as you plant the bulbs or cover them after planting.
Snowdrops perform in full sun to partial shade (four hours or more). Like many of our favorite early-flowering species, they bloom beautifully under deciduous tree canopy. The bare branches allow sun infiltration during the active growing season before the trees leaf out. Once leaves emerge, the dappled light offers cooling protection. Autumn’s natural leaf drop creates a natural mulch for insulation and nutrition.
For the earliest blooms, plant snowdrops in a south-facing location in full sun. The sun exposure warms roots and promotes early leafing and budding. Make sure to grow them in a visible area for easy viewing and enjoyment.
Plant at the Right Depth

Snowdrops are small bulbs that make for easy, shallow planting. Plant them two to three inches deep with a spacing of two to three inches apart. This tight spacing creates a full look at maturity, whether in a pocket planting or a large swath.
To plant large numbers, lightly turn or dig a swath of ground and scatter them within, returning the soil for a few inches of coverage. To hand plant smaller numbers, orient the root end at the base with the stem end upright. Either way, the bulbs tend to find their way up as they reach for the sun’s warmth and light.
Post-Bloom Care
With the right site, ample winter chill, and even moisture, snowdrops can be left to their own devices for years. They’ll naturally spread through seeding and bulb offsets to develop tidy groups or colonies.
Leave the Leaves

The low-maintenance nature of these spring-flowering bulbs entails letting their leaves remain in place after flowering. Once the bulb flowers (reproduces), the foliage begins to decline as the bulb prepares to enter dormancy. Throughout the growing season, it stores energy and nutrition reserves for the following year.
To build as many stores as possible, let foliage turn yellow and brown. In that time, it continues to photosynthesize and direct nutrients to the bulbs for storage. It’s this energy storage that fosters vigorous growth post-dormancy.
Leaves usually fade within six weeks of flowering. Disguise them by planting them among other perennials that emerge as they decline (deadnettle, geranium, astilbe, ferns). Let them become natural mulch in place or clip them to tidy up the appearance.
Stop Irrigating

After blooming, reduce irrigation (if any), stopping completely as leaves begin to yellow. As the bulbs enter dormancy, they’re no longer actively uptaking moisture from the surrounding soil to support upper growth. Oversaturation can lead to bulb and root rot.
Decide Whether to Fertilize

Rich soils and compost quell the need for fertilization, but for a boost or in leaner compositions, provide a low-grade organic granular fertilizer (like 5-10-5) as new growth emerges in late winter/spring or right after flowering. This supports roots and bulb energy stores to persist through summer and winter for reemergence the following spring.
Avoid getting fertilizer on the foliage, and give a cleansing rinse after applying. Weeds become competitors for nutrients during this time, and hand weeding often benefits the bulbs.
You can also opt for a fresh layer of compost post-flowering to support soils and build health in lieu of fertilizer.
Dig, Divide, and Transplant

Snowdrops spread slowly, taking longer than some other bulbs to naturalize. Left undisturbed, they form large but compact colonies. To transplant and expand them to other garden areas, dig and divide the bulbs just after they flower in spring. This will be when leaves are still green and before dormancy begins.
To divide, use a fork, spade, or shovel to dig around the perimeter of the group. Dig deeply to lift the pocket. Separate the bulbs you wish to move and any offsets (small bulbs attached to the mother bulb). Offsets pull apart easily when ready to separate; if not, replant them together. Replant the divisions and mother plants immediately, and water them in thoroughly.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do snowdrops need dividing?
Snowdrops spread slowly and develop bulb offsets to build the breadth of the colony. While they seldom need dividing and can remain undisturbed for years, you can divide them to expand them to other garden areas. Division also creates space between established groups to prevent crowding and promote blooming.
Why aren’t my snowdrops flowering?
If you have recently divided your crop, the new bulbs may not show flowers the following spring. Small offsets may take a year to develop roots and bulbs large enough to support blooming. It may also be a case of an established, older group that would benefit from division to create space for bulbs, roots, and shoots. Also, check that they’re not in deep shade. Full sun to partial shade provides the sun exposure necessary for snowdrop blooms.