How to Plant, Grow and Care For Lilies

A joy to the senses when they flower in mid to late summer, lilies are prized for their showy, colorful blooms, vertical stature, and complex scents. Pass a cluster of these exotic beauties on a walk through the park and they’re sure to grab your attention. Plant a group of these beautiful flowers in your own yard, and the neighbors will be prying you for gardening tips.

But the truth is, despite having unique, oversized personalities, lilies are actually quite easy to grow. Explore the differences between the plant group’s nine horticultural categories before making your selections, and you’ll be ahead of the game.

Get to know a bit about the lily’s history, growing requirements, usage, and maintenance, and you’ll be off to a great start.

Cultivation

The Lilium genus includes roughly 100 species of flowering perennials ranging in height from 2 to 6 feet. Its signature blooms come in just about every color imaginable,  including red, yellow, pink, orange, and white, and feature six narrow, reflexive petals. Flowers can be bowl, trumpet, or bell-shaped and range in size from 3 to 10 inches.

Lily stems are singular and feature narrow, strappy leaves arranged in a whorled pattern from bottom to top. Most species are hardy in zones 3 to 9, but some lily varieties are more sensitive to extreme hot and/or cold temperatures.

A true lily grows from a scaly yellow or white bulb and can survive cold winters in the ground. Bulbs do not require complete dormancy in order to thrive and will bloom reliably for many years to come.

Lily flowers are often confused with the daylily or the amaryllis, which have similar profiles but are actually members of another genus. Foliage on those groups will be larger and longer with habits that are fountain-like rather than spoke-like.

Classification

With so many variations in character and bloom time, the genus can be overwhelming to even the most seasoned gardener.

To help illuminate some key distinctions and aid in proper identification, the North American Lily Society recognizes nine horticultural divisions. A quick look at each group will help you sort through your options and make informed selections for your own gardens.

Asiatic Hybrids

• Origin: Eastern and Central Asia
• Hardiness Zone: 3-8
• Height: 1-5 feet
• Bloom Time: Mid-summer
• Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Stems are 3-4 feet tall, and blooms are 4-5 inches wide on lilies in this category. The earliest to bloom and the most cold tolerant, Asiatic lilies come in the broadest array of colors and typically face upward.

Flowers are mostly unscented, which is a plus if you’re mixing an Asiatic lily in with other stronger-smelling lilies. Smaller varieties can be grown in containers. All cultivars in this group make long-lasting cut flowers.

Martagon Hybrids (Turk’s Cap Lilies)

• Origin: Asia, Europe
• Hardiness Zone: 3-9
• Height: 3-6 feet
• Bloom Time: Mid-summer
• Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade

One of the most shade-tolerant groups, Martagon lilies feature numerous small flowers that droop downward and resemble a turban or ‘Turk’s Cap.’ Yellow, orange, red, pink, lavender, and white are the most common colors on this early blooming variety. Petals frequently have speckled surfaces.

Martagon lilies can be a little persnickety in their first couple of years but will thrive in subsequent seasons. Blooms are mildly fragrant and look natural near the forest’s edge or in dappled shade. Do not plant in areas that will receive hot afternoon sun.

Candidum LIlies (Madonna Lilies)

• Origin: Balkans, Middle East
• Hardiness Zone: 6-9
• Height: 4-6 feet
• Bloom Time: Early summer
• Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Members of this group are heirloom lilies derived from species that date back to 4,000 years. The nickname ‘Madonna Lily’ reflects the Christian association between lilies and purity. 

Candidum lilies make up the least populous horticultural group. Flowers are trumpet-shaped and plentiful, with each stem producing up to 20 flowers that are 2-3 inches long. Lilies in this class have an intense fragrance and prefer soil that’s on the dry side. Stems are thick and extra strong.

American Hybrid Lilies

• Origin: North America
• Hardiness Zone: 4-9
• Height: 5-7 feet
• Bloom Time: Early-mid-summer
• Sun Exposure: Part shade

Derived from wild lilies that are native to North America, members of this group will spread by clumping and should be considered for natural areas where you’d like your lilies to colonize.

American Hybrid lilies bloom early in warmer zones and slightly later in cooler zones. Flowers are extra large, typically featuring white to cream-colored petals with yellow to orange bases, and they curl back strongly to reveal long, colorful anthers.

Longiflorum Hybrids (Easter Lilies)

• Origin: Japan, Taiwan
• Hardiness Zone: 4-8
• Height: 2-3 feet
• Bloom Time: Mid-late summer
• Sun Exposure: Full sun

Flowers in this group are typically pure white and oversized at 6 to 7 inches wide. Blooms are trumpet-shaped and face outward, but not downward, like a pendant. Easter lilies are popular gifts and are most commonly featured in containers, but they can be grown directly in the soil as well.

While Easter lilies are not likely to perennialize in zones lower than 4, they are one of the few bulb plants that can be forced into early bloom for late winter enjoyment in the house and then transplanted into the garden when the weather warms.

Trumpet and Aurelian Hybrids

• Origin: Asia, Europe
• Hardiness Zone: 5-8
• Height: 3-7 feet
• Bloom Time: Late summer
• Sun Exposure: Full sun

Lilies in the Trumpet and Aurelian class are tall and imposing, with extra large, waxy blooms flaring out like brass horns. With willowy stems and some varieties maxing out at heights of 7 feet, many of these guys will require staking to prevent breakage.

Unlike some of their lily peers, members of this group need full sun and will not do well unless they get at least 6 hours. When properly deadheaded, some will produce a second flush of buds for a particularly long bloom time.

Oriental Lilies

• Origin: Eastern Asia
• Hardiness Zone: 4-9
• Height: 3-5 feet
• Bloom Time: Late summer
• Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Blooming late in the season when other lily varieties are just about finished, Oriental lilies are similar to Asiatic in form but have a lighter, sweeter scent. They are also a bit more delicate and may require more of your attention.

Known for their strong fragrance, Oriental lily flowers can be up to 8 inches wide and are commonly included in floral arrangements. Flowers in this class require a bit more acidity than most other lilies, so do a pH test before planting directly in your soil.

Interdivisional Lilies

• Origin: Varies
• Hardiness Zone: 3-9
• Height: 3-6 feet
• Bloom Time: Mid-summer
• Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade

This is a catch-all category that includes lilies hybridized from the previous seven groups. Interdivisional lilies are the result of horticultural selection and experimentation with the best characteristics from two or more other divisions. Flowers range broadly in height, scent, and bloom size.

Species Lilies

• Origin: Varies
• Hardiness Zone: 3-10
• Height: Varies
• Bloom Time: Varies
• Sun Exposure: Full sun to part shade

Members of this group are the wild ancestors from which lilies in all other categories are descended. They can be found on mountaintops and in bogs, along highways, and in jungles.

They spread easily by seed in their natural environments but don’t take particularly well to being cultivated in the ornamental garden. Heights, bloom times, and flower characteristics vary wildly within this group.

Propagation

Once lilies are established in your garden, chances are pretty good you’re going to want some more. The good news is lilies will naturally reproduce new offsets below ground, which means you’re going to get more whether you like it or not.

They also produce bulbils on their leaf axils that can be nurtured into mature plants, bulb scales that can be nudged into reproduction, and seeds that can be harvested for direct sowing. Let’s look at the five primary ways to propagate lilies.

Leave Them Alone

If left to their own devices, lilies will produce offset bulbs from which new lilies will grow. After initially planting a single lily, you’ll likely see 2 to 3 new lilies pop up in subsequent seasons. This is the plant’s self-division process at work.

Divide Bulblets

A few more years down the road, you might notice that stems are more plentiful but significantly shorter and with diminished bloom production. This means they’re getting crowded, and it’s time to dig them up and separate them into several new plants. These are the steps:

Harvest Bulbils

Lilies can also be reproduced by removing and planting their bulbils – mini bulbs that form from tissue along the stem. Here’s how it’s done:

Grow from scales

New lilies can also be produced by coaxing bulb scales into producing more bulbils. Here’s how you do it:

Grow From Seed

Lilies can be grown successfully from seed, but keep in mind that there are great variations in how long it will take for them to be productive. Some lilies will flower within a year or two, but others will take up to seven years before blooms are produced.

With that said, it is certainly an economical option for gardeners with patience and optimism. Here are the steps:

Planting

Lilies are relatively easy to grow if you follow some basic guidelines. Like most bulbs, the best time to plant is in fall, when the season is winding down, but there is still time to establish roots. Since hardiness varies greatly among lily species, however, you’ll want to make sure you’re planting a variety that can handle your zone’s average winter temperatures.

Most lilies are hardy between 3 and 9, but some will only perennialize in zones 6-10. If you’re living in the upper Midwest and want to grow a Trumpet or Aurelian hybrid, you may want to plant in early spring and accept that your lily will likely only last for one season. It may also be that you ran out of gas last fall and still want to work some colorful lilies into the landscape. And that’s fine too. It’s not too late.

Whether planting in fall or spring, begin by loosening the soil about 12-15 inches down. This will give your lilies’ roots some room to ramble and spread. Generally speaking, lily bulbs should be planted at a depth that’s roughly three times as deep as the bulb is tall. So if your bulb is 2 inches tall, plant it around 6 inches deep.

Lilies look best when planted in groups or bundles rather than rows, especially if you plan to cut some of them for indoor arrangements. And while they can grow just fine as a single specimen, they typically look more natural when surrounded or fronted by other less leggy garden friends.

Give them plenty of space in between to account for expansion in future seasons and to discourage the occurrence of powdery mildew and/or other airflow issues. A distance of 8-12 inches between plants is the standard recommendation. A little more can’t hurt.

Planting in Containers

Lilies can also be planted successfully in pots. The same rules apply. Just make sure you’re choosing a variety that does not get so tall that it topples your container or looks out of proportion. Stems will also be more prone to breakage in an exposed pot, so look for varieties that are short(ish) and sturdy.

Make sure your bulb’s pointed end is facing up. Bulb bases will be flatter and likely have some visible root hairs. The pointed end is the location from which stems will sprout. Top fill your holes loosely, water evenly, and forget about them until mid-summer.

How to Grow

While growing lilies does not require a high level of horticultural precision, they do have some general likes and dislikes. Pay attention to the following preferences, and you’ll be giving them the best start possible.

Light

Most lilies require full sun, so make sure they receive at least 6 hours a day. Hours do not need to be consecutive, but they must total 6. Lilies also prefer morning sun to hot afternoon sun, so an ideal location would have southeast exposure rather than southwest. Or at least offer some shade later in the day.

Some varieties will tolerate a bit more shade than others without getting leggy and weak, but others might not flower at all without full sun.

Species lilies, which are wild and woodland plants, enjoy considerably less sun and will do well under a dappled tree canopy. It’s wise to check your nursery tag and do a little research before siting a particular variety of lily.

Soil

Lilies demand well-drained soil since bulbs are susceptible to rot and mold. A bed that holds standing water or has a clay-heavy makeup should be eliminated from consideration.

Soil content should be crumbly and have plenty of organic material worked into it. If you don’t have well-drained beds, consider a raised bed or an alternate location for your lilies.

Soil should be slightly acidic for most lily varieties. A soil test should reveal a pH value of somewhere between 6 and 6.5, ideally.

The exception to this rule is Martagon lilies, which prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil content. Again, research your specific variety for its unique preferences before planting.

Water

Lilies require consistent watering from early spring through bloom time, but again, do not overwater them. Soil should never be completely dry, but it should not ever puddle. This is where good gardening judgment comes into play.

After blooming, watering should be minimal unless there is a period of extreme drought. Bulbs are particularly vulnerable to rot and fungus during the energy storage phase of growth, so care must be taken to keep them dry but not parched for the rest of the season.

Climate

Lilies are partial to climates that have warm summers and cold winters. Most varieties will not do well in regions with extreme humidity. The genus does not require complete dormancy, but temperatures should dip below 65 degrees during a good chunk of winter to keep them from prematurely sprouting.

Most lilies are hardy from zone 4 to zone 8, with some species extending down into zone 3 and others reaching up into zones 9 and 10.

Asiatic and Martagon hybrids are good options for colder parts of the world, while Candidum and Trumpet/Aurelian hybrids are good choices for warmer zones.

Temperature

Most lilies tolerate below-zero temperatures just fine and can tolerate heat up to about 90 degrees. In warmer regions, gardeners typically plant lily bulbs a few inches deeper than normal to provide a cooler environment for roots and bulbs.

Both bulbs and established, nursery-grown lilies can be planted in the landscape any time the ground is workable.

Location

Since lilies are tall and singular in nature, they should not be planted in open areas where strong winds might be a problem. Choose locations near buildings or fences that will provide some protection, and your lilies will be much happier.

Again, shoot for beds with at least 6 hours of sun (for all but Species group lilies), and shoot for morning versus afternoon rays if possible. If lilies will have western exposure, try to give them some shade late in the day.

Fertilization

Lilies grown in quality soil do not require supplemental feeding but may benefit from an early application of a fertilizer that’s high in potassium.

Choose an NPK ratio of 5-10-5 to encourage strong roots and blooms without stimulating aggressive foliage and stem growth. Repeat once a month if necessary until blooming is complete, following manufacturer’s directions for application. 

If an organic feeding regimen is preferred, fish or bone meal granules can be worked into the soil in early spring at a ratio of 5 pounds per 100 square feet.

Maintenance

Although lilies are relatively low-maintenance perennials, there are a few routine garden tasks you can perform to increase their longevity and encourage their brilliance.

Mulch

Since lilies like cool roots below ground and sunny stalks above ground, it’s important to keep them mulched with 2-3 inches of organic material.

Mixed hardwood, pine straw, hay, or even piled leaves will help keep bulbs from overheating in summer and freezing through in winter.

Stakes

Lily varieties with mature heights of over 3 feet will benefit from staking or hooping to keep them upright. Insert stakes or canes about 6 inches from the plant’s base when shoots are young and immature, and attach them loosely with ties or twine. A peony hoop can also be used to encircle lilies as they grow and keep things vertical.

Deadheading

Although lilies will only bloom once, spent flowers should be removed promptly to discourage the roots from wasting energy on seed creation.

This will direct all nutrients to the bulbs, where next year’s blooms will evolve after this year’s flower cycle is complete.

Cutback

Lilies will continue to photosynthesize and store energy right up until the bitter end, so it’s important to leave stems and leaves in place.

When they have turned completely brown, typically after the first hard frost, you can cut them down to ground level and compost (if foliage is healthy).

Division

Since lilies reproduce asexually from their base with new bulblets, they will crowd themselves out every three or four years. You’ll start to notice decreased bloom intensity or stem height and maybe a dead zone in the center of a clump.

When this happens, dig up the whole plant and break the bulblets off to form new plants. Replant the existing lily and find a sunny spot for some new ones!

Popular Varieties

With thousands of lily cultivars and hybrids to choose from, the selection process can feel a bit overwhelming. If you get to know the nine horticultural divisions commonly used to differentiate them, it might help narrow your choices down a bit.

After that, take a spin through your local nursery. The lilies they feature will most likely be tried and true varieties that are novice-friendly. Here are a few to consider:

Easter Lily

Scientific Name: Lilium longiflorum ‘White American’

This familiar plant has 5-inch, trumpet-shaped flowers that droop and arch outward like a flared horn. Petals are creamy white with a papery texture and reflex slightly to reveal golden yellow anthers.

Foliage and stems are dark and max out at 2-4 feet, requiring staking for support. As an added bonus, Easter Lily can be planted in the yard after flowers have faded.

It will not bloom again this summer, but next year it should return. Flowers in this class are only suitable for perennial growth in zones 5-8

Stargazer lily

Scientific Name: Lilium orientalis ‘Stargazer’

You may have heard of this one also, as it’s fairly popular in contemporary landscapes. Stargazer is a popular pink lily cultivar, that commonly features oversized pink blooms that face up toward the sky. This cultivar can also bloom in yellow or white.

Petals are darker near the midribs and often freckled with dark spots near the margins. They arch back to reveal star-shaped centers and rust-colored anthers. Stargazer reaches heights of 3-4 feet and features a strong, spicy scent.

Tiger Lily

Scientific Name: Lilium lancifolium ‘Splendens’

This common lily has bright orange flower petals with black-brown spots that read like an animal print. They curl backward on 5-inch, unscented blooms that droop downward. Blossoms are plentiful and long-lasting, with each 3-4 foot plant producing 20-25 each season.

Cultivars from the Tiger Lily family are often confused with the Orange Ditch Lily, which is actually a member of the daylily family (Hemerocallis). 

But ditch lilies have foliage that grows from the base, flowers that face upward and only bloom for one day, and no spots. They spread through tuberous roots and are considered invasive in some regions.

Casa Blanca Lily

Scientific Name: Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’

This Oriental class lily is much beloved all over the world for obvious reasons. On 3-4 foot stems with dark green foliage, elegant white, bowl-shaped flowers emit an intoxicating fragrance. Petals curl back slightly to reveal extra long, rust-colored anthers.

A popular choice for white or ‘moon’ gardens, Casa Blanca also makes a great cut flower and lasts long in a vase. Stems may require staking.

Pests & Diseases

As always, prevention is the best medicine for insect and disease problems in the lily world. With proper planting and maintenance, lilies are rather resilient and do not suffer from a whole lot of ailments. There are a few pests and diseases to watch out for, however. Here’s a quick look at the most common:

Botrytis

A fungal disease that’s typically the result of poor draining soil, damaged bulbs, or excessive nitrogen use, botrytis is often a problem for lily growers in regions with high levels of humidity.

Look for gray mold spores on leaves and flowers as well as weak, discolored, or wilting stems. Buds may fail to open, and tissue may have a fuzzy texture.

To prevent botrytis from afflicting your lilies, direct irrigation at their bases rather than their foliage or blooms, and water in the morning rather than night. Keep beds tidy, as botrytis can be spread from the petals or leaves of other plants in your garden.

Unfortunately, once a plant is affected by this fungus, it will not recover and should be disposed of promptly.

Basal Rot

Another fungal condition, basal rot, attacks the bulb plate first. This means the attack is happening underground, and you’re not likely to notice until it’s too late.

Dull-colored, yellow, or wilting foliage are often the first signs of this disease. Stunted growth, bud failure, and sudden death are also indications of basal rot. When excavated, bulbs will be dark and soft. Roots may have brown tips and be slimy in texture.

To prevent basal rot, water conservatively to prevent fungal conditions, and mulch beds to keep soil temperatures from getting too hot. Keep tools clean, as fungus spreads easily from species to species.

Promptly remove affected plants and their surrounding soil, as lilies will not recover from this disease.

Viruses

Lilies are vulnerable to a handful of viruses that are typically spread by piercing-sucking insects like thrips and aphids. Look for twisted, stunted growth or reduced bud production, as well as streaking, mottling, or splotching on leaves and blooms to indicate the presence of viral activity.

Always purchase or acquire new lilies from a reputable source, as viruses can be present even at the seed or bulb stage of growth. Manage pest populations to reduce spread, and sanitize tools between plants.

Lily Leaf Beetle

Aside from piercing and sucking insects that will often spread disease, the lily’s biggest pest is the lily leaf beetle. Native to Asia but accidently brought to North America, this insect has become an increasing problem for lily gardeners in the last 20 years or so.

Signs of damage include stripped or defoliated leaves, typically happening very quickly. Adult female beetles have rounded red tops and black bottoms and lay up to 450 eggs, which are tiny and orange/brown in color. The larvae immediately begin chewing through lily leaves and can do a lot of damage in just a few weeks.

Controlling the lily leaf beetle is challenging. With daily patrols and aggressive hand-picking, some populations can be managed manually, but it must be done with urgency. Some luck can also be had with neem oil and/or spinosad products.

Frequently Asked Questions