How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Fosteriana Tulips

There is something exciting about planting spring-blooming bulbs in the fall. The long wait makes it that much more exciting when those leaves first break through and reach for the sun. When it comes to popularity, tulips always rank near the top of the list of spring-blooming bulbs.

Over more than 100 years, more than 1000 hybrids have made their debut, each one prettier than the last. They lay claim to nearly every color in the rainbow and many petal forms for you to choose from. Symbolic of perfect love, Fosteriana tulips are a wonderful flower to grow in your garden!

What Is It?

Fosteriana tulips are an early blooming type. They are among the first to bloom in spring and also among the largest. Developed from a wild strain from Central Asia, those in the Emporer series are the most well-known.

As tulips go, Fosterianas are sturdy and reliably perennial. Their stature makes them stand out among other spring-blooming bulbs. They layer beautifully with sunny daffodils and sweet-smelling hyacinths, which typically bloom at the same time. Let’s take a closer look at this impressive species.

Characteristics

Fosterianas are conventional in flower form, with cup-shaped, single-petal blooms. What isn’t conventional is the size of those blooms. Their defining characteristic is the oversized flowers that, when open, can reach diameters between five and ten inches across. That is significantly larger than the average, which falls in the range of two to three inches. 

The most common colors for this species are warm shades. They include pink, red, orange, cream, and yellow, with some bi-colored and some solid-colored varieties. They are some of the earliest blooming tulips and are uncommonly large. 

Their height, which is taller than most, makes them more impressive still. They will stand high above most spring bulbs, which are wonderful for layering. Their long stems and massive blooms make them ideal for the cutting garden.

Native Area

Tulips are native to parts of Asia, the Near and Middle East, and the Mediterranean region. Fosteriana comes from a wild tulip found in Central Asia. Most of the varieties we have available are hybrids of this wild species. 

You might be surprised by the harsh conditions these plants are accustomed to. They are mainly native to mountainous areas. They are adapted to cold winters, well-draining soil, and a significant amount of sun. Tulips often grow in places where little else does. In spite of their delicate appearance, they are rather hardy.

Planting

You can grow tulips from seeds, but it takes a long time. If you plant them from seeds, you may not see flowers for as many as seven years. Bulbs are typically the way to go, as they will bloom in their first year. 

The best time to plant tulip bulbs is in the fall. They need a period of cold temperatures, and they won’t get enough of what they need if you plant them in the spring. Depending on your region, September or October are typically good months to plant your bulbs.

Planting before your first frost date is best. This gives them the opportunity to set down some roots before their winter dormancy. Choose a sunny location with soil that has excellent drainage. Wet soil will rot your bulbs and result in a poor showing in spring. 

Dig holes about five inches deep for your bulbs, and plant them with the flat end down. They sprout leaves from the pointed end. Backfill the holes and cover them with a thick layer of mulch. Water them every few days until the ground freezes. They won’t need water during dormancy.

How to Grow

With the right care and in the right environment, tulips are not difficult to grow. However, they will act like annuals in warmer regions, so you must cold-stratify them. Place your bulbs in your refrigerator for about three to four months and plant them in late winter in Zones 9-11. 

You can also cold-stratify earlier in the year in those regions and then plant in late fall for late winter and early spring flowers. Other than that, if you give them what they need in terms of soil, water, sun, and fertilizer, you should have gorgeous flowers in the spring!

Light

For the biggest, most robust flowers, you should choose a spot in the garden that receives at least six hours of sun. With too little exposure, their stems may become leggy and flop over, and the blooms will be subpar. 

The warmer your climate, the more important your sun-shade balance will be. Since they aren’t indicated for Zones 9-11, it will be more difficult to grow them there. However, if you plant them early enough and give them afternoon shade, you may be more successful. 

In cool climates, ensure they get as much light as you can give them. Morning sun is ideal in any environment because it’s cooler, and Fosteriana tulips are cool-weather plants. 

Water

The most important time to pay attention to watering is in the fall. Right after planting, you want to water every two to three days. This will help the bulbs to develop roots which makes them stronger when it comes time to sprout. Keep the soil moist but not wet or muddy, as this will rot the bulbs. 

The exception to this fall watering is if you get a lot of rain that time of year. As long as the soil stays lightly moist, don’t bother with watering. When the ground freezes your bulbs will go dormant, and you can stop watering. 

In the spring, stick to a similar plan. Spring tends to have more rainfall than fall, so don’t water much if this is the case. As long as the soil is moist, your tulips will be happy. Once established, tulips don’t need a great deal of water as long as the temperature stays cool.  

Soil

Most importantly, Fosteriana tulips need loose, well-draining soil. My region has heavy, clay soil, so it is more effective to plant tulips in raised beds. Since I’m in Zone 9, this also means they get the maximum cold exposure. You can also amend your soil if you have this issue. 

Adding organic matter like compost or peat moss and working it in will loosen the soil. It will also slightly lower the pH, and tulips like slightly acidic soil, so that’s a bonus. 

Temperature and Humidity

I mentioned tulip’s need for cold to bloom optimally. Your bulbs should be fine if you get ten weeks in the 30s or below (~0°C). Otherwise, you’ll want to cold-stratify them artificially. Zone 8 may be questionable if you have a mid-winter. In Zone 8, I would put them in the fridge for a month before planting just to be sure. 

Fertilizing

Fosteriana tulips fall into the mid-range when it comes to their nutrient needs. You don’t need to put fertilizer in the holes where you plant them. However, you should top-dress the soil with compost.

Fertilize again in the spring as soon as they sprout, this time by top dressing. Use a balanced fertilizer to encourage both green growth and flower development. A 10-10-10 formula is great for tulips in the spring.

Maintenance

When you plant your bulbs in the fall after top-dressing with compost or fertilizer, cover the soil with mulch. Mulch improves drainage and helps regulate the moisture and temperature of the soil.

After they bloom, the bulbs pull nutrients from the plant back into the roots. This step is important because they store that energy for the next year. After they bloom, deadhead the flowers, cut the entire flower stem off, and leave the leaves. This redirects energy from supporting the flower, back down into the bulb.

After the foliage turns brown, cut it all the way back to the soil. Cover them with mulch and let them rest up for next year. You can try digging them up and storing them in warmer climates for next year. This doesn’t always have the best success rate, but it’s possible.

Propagation

Most Fosteriana tulip propagation happens by division rather than by seeds. Planting from seed is much more time-consuming, and hybrids typically do not breed true from seed. Seeds also take roughly 7 years to produce a plant that blooms.

Division

Tulips produce offsets, and you can separate these and grow more plants from them. You’ll want to thin out your plants every three to four years. Unearth the bulbs at the end of summer or the beginning of fall. This is when they will have stored up all their energy, and offsets will be strong.  

Gently remove the offsets from the parent bulbs. Store them in a cool, dark, dry room until temperatures drop consistently below the 50s and plant them. It may take a few years for them to store up enough energy to bloom, but it won’t take as long as those planted from seeds. 

Popular Varieties

The Emporer series of Fosteriana tulips is the most popular and widely grown. There are some other truly beautiful types as well, though. Here is a combination of the two!

‘Exotic Emporer’

	common name ‘Exotic Emporer’
	botanical name Tulipa ‘Exotic Emperor’
	sun requirements Full sun
	height 1’-2’
	hardiness zones 3-8

‘Exotic Emporer’ resembles a peony tulip because it is double-petaled. However, it is a Fosteriana and an Emporer. The large, gorgeous cream double blooms have a golden and green flame from the base. They are somewhere between white and yellow and look stunning as a mass planting or mixed with a brighter color. 

‘Red Emporer’

	common name ‘Red Emperor’
	botanical name Tulipa ‘Red Emperor’ or ‘Madame Lefeber’
	sun requirements Full sun
	height 1’-2’
	hardiness zones 3-8

Another Emporer Fosteriana, ‘Red Emporer,’ is striking with rich, bold, tall red blooms. Its sturdy stems make it an excellent cut flower. When it opens, there is a black heart. Petals open flat on sunny days and halfway on cloudy days. This is an award winner and highly popular. 

‘Oracle’

	common name ‘Oracle’
	botanical name Tulipa ‘Oracle’
	sun requirements Full sun
	height 1’-2’
	hardiness zones 3-8

‘Oracle’ is fun and splashy, making a huge statement in the garden, especially in a mass planting. The tall flowers are glowing gold at the base and flaming red at the ends. The outside of the petals shows an ombre effect, while inside, the two colors are separate. It’s a total showstopper.

‘Yellow Purissima’

	common name ‘Yellow Purissima’
	botanical name Tulipa ‘Yellow Purissima’
	sun requirements Full sun
	height 1’-2’
	hardiness zones 3-8

Sunshine in a flower, ‘Purissima Yellow,’ is a winner of the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. The entire bloom, from the base to the tips and everything in between, is golden yellow. It has a strong stem, making it sturdy on windy days, and a great cut flower. 

Common Problems

Tulips aren’t especially susceptible to pests or diseases, but there are a handful of things to look out for. If you can identify them early, your plants have a better chance of being saved. 

Pests

Keep an eye out for aphids, as these guys seem to just pop up everywhere. Tulips may not be their first choice, but they won’t turn them down. They leave behind a sticky sweet excrement where black sooty mold can grow, which won’t look very nice. 

Neem oil or horticultural oil work well to get rid of aphids. Be careful not to spray when the flowers are open as these can harm pollinators as well. A strong spray of water can knock populations down, but be careful not to knock over your tulips. 

Slugs and snails come out at night and eat holes in your plants. They can do a significant amount of damage if you don’t get rid of them. Bait and traps work well for warding off these slimy pests. 

Tulip bulbs are poisonous to pets, but some small rodents may enjoy digging them up to get a closer look. Mulching over them will help keep these away. 

Mites, both bulb and spider, can be a problem. To avoid bulb mites, avoid overwatering. Purchase your bulbs from a reputable source to make sure they make it to you in good condition and uninfected. Spider mites like dry conditions. Water appropriately and you’ll stave off both of these pests.

Diseases

Fungal and bacterial rot are the most common issues. These can lie under the soil and rot your bulbs before they have a chance to sprout. If your plants don’t sprout in spring, there’s a good chance they rotted over the winter. 

There are two other common diseases that affect these perennials. Tulip-breaking virus is fatal, and shows as mottling and streaking on flowers and foliage. If you notice this, pull them and dispose of them away from other plants. Do not compost them.

Tulip fire is a fungal issue caused by botrytis, a fungal pathogen. The foliage will have a burned appearance and possibly mold spots. Again, if you notice this, remove them and dispose of them. You don’t want it to spread to other flowers or your compost pile.