How To Divide Peonies in 5 Easy Steps

While peonies don’t require much in the way of dividing, it’s a useful way to expand our collection and can benefit the health of the colony. If you have an established group, it’s a great way to spread the bountiful blooms to other garden areas. Join gardening expert Katherine Rowe in simple steps for successfully dividing peonies.

Written by Katherine Rowe Horticulture review by Sarah Jay Last updated: March 18, 2025 | 5 min read

Dense Paeonia shrub covered with vibrant pink blooms and glossy green leaves on upright stems.

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Peonies are long-lived beauties that grow freely in their optimal conditions with little gardener intervention. We find them growing with abandon in old homesteads and historic gardens, some lasting for up to a century.

The floriferous perennials, from woody tree species to herbaceous varieties to intersectional hybrids of the two, bring unparalleled and fully-petaled blooms in spring and early summer. Their attractive, divided foliage and sweet fragrance add to their delight.

While they seldom need dividing and can live for decades undisturbed, we may opt to divide peonies to expand the colony and spread the blooms to other garden locations. At times, it also benefits the health of the group. Understanding a few peony-dividing nuances makes the process simple and successful.

Division Overview

Gloved hands using a spade to loosen soil around Paeonia tubers with attached roots and stems. — *Paeonia* tubers produce shoots and roots, spreading into clumps that are divided for propagation and thinning.

Peonies sprout roots and shoots from tubers (enlarged roots). They spread to form large clumps which, through division, separate for propagation and to thin the group. Newly divided segments hold stems, roots, and bud eyes along the tuber section.

Peonies have extensive roots and are sensitive to disturbance. They’re slow to establish and prefer to remain in place after planting. Because of the disruption, transplants or divisions may delay blooming a year or two. Full flowering can take a few years.

During the growing season, peonies store energy in their tubers for winter dormancy and to continue development in future seasons.

Tools and Materials

Dug-up Paeonia tubers with thick roots, pink shoots, and visible bud eyes on a wooden surface. — Dividing *Paeonia* clumps is simple, using basic tools like spades, knives, and pruners for clean cuts.

Dividing these flowering perennials is straightforward and requires only basic garden tools. You’ll need a digging fork, shovel, or spade to lift the clump. A clean, sharp knife cuts the tuber into divisions. Pruners help cut stems and tidy up the crown.

Prepare the transplant area before dividing peonies, whether in the existing growing spot or a different garden location. Check soil quality and add compost or broken-down organic matter to increase richness. Peonies thrive in organically rich, loose, and well-draining soils. They’ll tolerate lesser conditions, but clay and sand compositions benefit from extra compost. Lightly turn the soil to aerate it and promote root development for the transplants.

When Division is Beneficial

Numerous reddish Paeonia shoots sprouting vertically from dark soil in early spring growth. — Dividing *Paeonia* clumps prevents overcrowding, promotes flowering, and provides new plants for transplanting.

There are a few reasons to divide peonies. Over time, the central plant may become less vigorous and show reduced flowering. Dividing the main clump prevents overcrowding, controls the spread, and promotes blooming. It rejuvenates growth. Division also creates new plants to transplant to other areas.

In some cases, the group may not thrive or fail to flower due to growing location. Mature peonies in too much shade, for example, benefit from dividing and transplanting to a sunnier locale. As the garden matures, conditions around the original planting may change and warrant an adjustment.

Overall, peonies infrequently need dividing and can be left in place for fifty years or more. Every three to five years is a good timeframe to check for division needs or if you hope to propagate the established selections.

Timing It Right

Hand cleaning soil off Paeonia tubers, revealing thick roots, pink shoots, and growth buds. — Divide and transplant tubers in early fall, giving them time to establish before winter frost.

September and October are the best times to divide and transplant peonies. The tubers have adequate energy reserves from the growing season, and the fall’s mild conditions give them time to settle in before winter extremes. An early fall division gives tubers time to set new roots for establishment in the new site before heavy frost. Four to six weeks before the first frost is ideal.

Digging, dividing, and replanting at other times of the year can cause disruption to the hard-working tubers. In addition to lessening stress, dividing peonies in fall gives them a necessary chill blast over the winter for spring’s emergence.

Digging

cutting stems of Paeonia Division in Garden Bed in preparation for division — Cut herbaceous stems to ground level, but leave woody stems intact for winter.

To move or divide peonies in the fall, cutback the stems of herbaceous types (common garden peonies) to the ground. If you’re working with a tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa and others), keep the woody stems intact. These persist over the winter and set buds for future flowering. While multistemmed tree peonies divide well, single-stemmed specimens do not.

Next, lift the roots by digging a berth of six inches around the crown. Dig deeply beneath to capture as much of the root system as possible and lift the clump. Rinse the roots with water or shake them gently to remove excess soil. Start from the outside of the clump, which holds the best divisions.

After making the divisions (below), transplant them directly to their prepped location and water in well. Placing them soon after lifting ensures the best viability.

Making the Divisions

Gloved hands holding freshly divided Paeonia tubers with attached fibrous roots and red buds. — Each division should have three to five buds and healthy roots before cutting into sections.

With the clump lifted, begin by inspecting the tubers. Aim for each division to have three to five buds (eyes) and good roots intact. The buds are where new shoots and roots originate on the new plant. Each piece of tuber we’ll cut should have stems, roots, and bud eyes. Using a sharp blade, cut the tubers into sections with the right number of buds. These are the new peonies.

Small sections with fewer than three buds are viable (as long as there’s at least one eye), but they take longer to develop. It may be two years or more before blooms appear on small divisions.

Replanting

newly planted Red Paeonia Shoots with dark colored soil around the plant — Plant tubers one to two inches deep; planting too deep may prevent flowering completely.

Once divided, replant the segments in good time for viability. With the planting area prepped and amended, tuck the divisions into their loose, well-drained, organically rich soils.

To plant the newly divided section, dig a hole large enough to accommodate the tuber and roots. Position tubers one to two inches beneath the soil surface. Tubers planted too deeply, even a little, impact flowering and may result in a failure to bloom.

Good air circulation is essential for peonies and reduces potential fungal problems like powdery mildew. Space the divisions three to four feet apart for adequate airflow as shoots develop and at maturity.

Peonies grow beautifully in containers large enough to support their mature size. Situate the tuber in a high-quality potting mix. Ensure pots and potting media are well-draining, and follow the tuber placement for in-ground specimens (one to two inches beneath the soil surface).

Siting and Care

Cluster of red Paeonia shoots pushing through bare soil, beginning seasonal growth. — Apply mulch in late fall to protect tubers, thinning it in spring before new growth.

Regular moisture, good soil drainage, aeration, and airflow are essential to overall health and flowering. Water newly divided and transplanted peonies at planting and during late warming spells. After that, regular fall moisture is enough as temperatures cool and dormancy ensues. There’s no need for supplemental irrigation during dormancy.

In spring and summer, consistent moisture usually entails watering once or twice weekly. About an inch of water per week, whether from rain or supplemental irrigation, is sufficient. Peonies don’t tolerate saturated soils, so ensure good drainage for root health.

Peonies are sun-loving and thrive with at least six hours daily. Most tolerate some shade, appreciating afternoon protection in areas with intense sun and heat.

Mulching helps regulate temperatures in spring and summer by keeping roots cool and retaining moisture. Add mulch in November before cold winters, especially in zones 3 and 4, for overwintering protection. Thin the layer as temperatures warm in spring before new growth emerges.

Fertilizing

Hold off on fertilizing new divisions until spring. In the fall, there’s no need to encourage new growth before dormancy. Nutrient-rich soils may be enough to support growth and flowering during the growing season. An all-purpose organic fertilizer gives a boost, like a slow-release granular 5-10-10 or 5-20-20. These ratios promote blooming without sending too much nitrogen into leaf and stem production.

If not using a straight granular (non-slow-release), provide three applications of a low-grade supplement. The first is as new growth emerges in spring, the second as buds form, and the third in late summer to support energy stores in the tuber. Kelp, seaweed, fish emulsion, alfalfa, or a phosphorous-rich formula are beneficial amendments.