Coconut Coir: What It Is, How To Use It, And The Best Brands To Buy


Coco coir is an increasingly popular type of hydroponic growing medium — and for good reason. There are a whole host of benefits to growing with coconut coir that you can and should take advantage of if you’re new to hydroponics.

There isn’t a good, comprehensive guide to coconut coir out there…until now. In this guide you’ll get just about everything you need to know about coco coir: what it is, its pros and cons, and the best brands to use.

If you just want to skip to the best brands, here they are:

Top Choices: 

Other Good Options

Recommended Nutrients for Coco

* All of these recommendations are explained in more depth below.

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What is Coconut Coir?

First, we need to understand what coconut coir actually is.

In the past, when coconuts were harvested for their delicious meat and juice, the coconut husk was considered a waste product. All of the material from the husk to the inner shell of the coconut was a discard product…until people realized it had many applications in gardening and home products.

Inside of a coconut
The interior structure of a coconut. source


Everything in between the shell and the outer coating of the coconut seed is considered coco coir. There are two types of fibers that make up coir — brown and white. Brown coir comes from mature, ripe coconuts and is a lot stronger, but less flexible. White fibers come from pre-ripe coconuts and are far more flexible, but much less strong.

Almost all of the coconut coir used for hydroponics is brown coir, as it’s processed even more after initial harvesting.

How is Coco Coir Made?

To get coconut coir ready for hydroponic and gardening uses, it needs to go through extensive processing.

First, they need to remove the coir from the coconuts. This is done by soaking the husks in water to loosen and soften them. This is either done in tidal waters or freshwater. If done in tidal waters, the coconut coir will take up a large amount of salt, which will need to be flushed out by the manufacturer at a later stage.

Then, they’re removed from the water bath and dried for over a year. After the drying process, which is quite extensive, the coir is organized into bales. These bales are then chopped and processed into various formats, from chips, to “croutons”, to classic ground coconut coir.

There’s a whole lot more that goes into the process of making coco coir safe and optimal for horticultural use, but we’ll get into that a bit lower in the article.​

Check out this video on the post-processing from completed coir into a shippable product:​

Pros and Cons to Coconut Coir

There are amazing benefits to using coconut coir in your garden. But just like any other kind of growing media, there are also some downsides to consider before you buy

Benefits of Coco Coir

Good transition from soil gardening – growing in coco coir feels like growing in soil, because the two media look so similar. You can have a completely hydroponic garden that looks almost the same as a soil garden. The only difference is instead of watering with only water, you’d water your coconut coir garden with nutrient-enriched water.

Retains moisture and provides a good environment – coco coir is one of the most effective growing media for water retention out there. It can absorb up to 10x its weight in water, meaning the roots of your plants will never get dehydrated. There’s also a lot of growing media for roots to work through, promoting healthy root development.

Environmentally safe – although I am a fan of using sphagnum peat moss in the garden, there’s no denying the environmental concerns that peat moss poses. Coconut coir doesn’t have the same problems. It can be used more than once unlike peat moss, which breaks down over time. It’s also a repurposed waste product from a renewable resource, unlike the peat bogs where we get our peat moss.

Insect-neutral – most garden pests do not enjoy settling in coconut coir, making it yet another line of defense in your integrated pest management system for your garden.

Can be less complex than “traditional hydroponics” – if growing hydroponically is new to you, coconut coir is a good first step. You can practice the basics of hydroponic gardening without having to buy or build a hydroponic system and perform all of the maintenance that it requires.

Downsides to Coco Coir

Inert – coconut coir is inert, meaning that it has no nutrients within it. It may look like soil, but it is not soil. This means you will need to add hydroponic nutrients and control the pH when using coco coir. Growing in soil isn’t too different though, as many gardeners amend their soil constantly throughout the growing season anyways.

May need additional supplementation – you may find your plants short on calcium and magnesium when using coconut coir, so supplementing with “Cal-Mag” may be necessary.

Needs rehydration – most coco coir products are shipped in dry, compressed bricks. While this saves on shipping cost, it adds labor to your growing process as you’ll need to rehydrate them before you can use them in the garden. This isn’t too hard though!

Mixes can be expensive – garden suppliers know that coco coir can be annoying to work with sometimes, so they’ve started to offer coconut coir mixes. This saves a lot of time, but is pretty expensive — and making your own mix isn’t too difficult.

Types of Coco Coir

When you buy a coconut coir product, you’re really buying three types of coconut coir: the fiber, the pith (or coconut peat), or the coco chips.

Together, they provide a powerful growing medium. Apart, they have very specific benefits. Here’s a look at what each of them are.

Coco Pith or Coco Peat

Coco Peat
A handful of coco peat.

The “peat” of coconut coir, this basically looks like finely ground coconut or peat moss. It’s so small and absorbent that if you were to use coco peat as your only growing medium, you might drown out the roots of your plants. It must be aged properly to be used as a growing media, as it can let out salts that will kill your plant if you’re not careful. Choosing a coconut coir manufacturer that ages properly is thus crucial for good growing.

Coco Fiber

Coco Fibers
Unprocessed coconut fibers.

Coconut fiber adds air pockets into your medium. It’s not very absorbent, which is good because your growing media needs air pockets in order to provide oxygen to the root zone. Coconut fibers do break down rather quickly though, meaning the air pockets they create will also decrease over time.

Coco Chips

Coconut chips
Coconut chips.

Coconut chips are basically an natural type of expanded clay pellet. They’re just made from plant matter instead of clay! They are best thought of as a hybrid between coco peat and coco fiber. They’re large enough to create air pockets, but also absorb water so your plants won’t dehydrate completely.

When using coconut coir in the garden, it is vital that you use the right mixture of these three types for the best results.

How to Choose High Quality Coco Coir

The most important factors in high quality coco coir is how it is harvested, prepared, and processed. Because none of these factors are directly in your control, you have to pick suppliers that follow all of the best practices for coco coir production.

After the coir is separated from the coconuts, it’s stored in piles for a few years. This puts it at risk for pathogens due to the natural pH of coco coir. Most producers that experience this will chemically sterilize the coir so it’s ready for use in your garden. This has its risks as well — it can prematurely break down the fibers and peat.

The absolute best manufacturers of coconut coir will have an iron-grip on their product from harvest to shipping.

They will:

  • Avoid situations that are conducive to pathogen growth
  • Have a dedicated system to control how the coconut coir ages
  • Rinse and wash the coir to flush out salts
  • Create the right blend of pith, fibers, and chips
  • Package and store their product correctly

If that sounds like a lot to look out for…IT IS! Fortunately, you don’t have to do any of that. All you have to do is make sure that it was done, either by asking your local garden shop about the supplier’s practices, or by reading on below where I’ve answered most of these questions for you for each type of coconut coir product I review.

The Best Coco Coir For Your Garden

Now that you have an understanding of what coco coir is, how it’s processed and made, and what to look for when buying it, you’re armed with the info you need to make a good buying decision.

We’ve tested a lot of different brands and learned a lot simply through trial and error. Here are our findings, which you can take with a grain of salt (pun intended).

Top Pick: CANNA Coco or FoxFarm Coco Loco

Both CANNA and Fox Farm are top coconut coir providers.

Both of these brands are known for their quality across their entire product range. Both CANNA and FoxFarm tightly monitor the production of the coconut coir they use in their products, so you can be sure that it’s been properly aged, dried, and flushed of salts.

CANNA sells theirs in 40L expandable bricks, or 50L expanded bags. Which you choose depends on if you want to save a bit of money on shipping and have to rehydrate the medium after receiving it.

Fox Farm sells a 2cu ft. expanded bag that is my personal choice when using an expanded coconut coir medium.

Other Options for Compressed Coconut Coir Bricks

General Hydroponics CocoTek Bale Coco Growing Media, 5kg
  • Consists of three different types of compressed coco coir
  • Low sodium content
  • Alternative to sphagnum peat moss
  • Contains only coconut pith and fibers
  • Provides plenty of aeration and drainage

Many first-time growers will opt for the cheaper compressed bricks, which is totally OK as long as it is properly rehydrated and prepared before use in the garden.

If you want to go with a compressed brick and can’t find the CANNA bricks, go with the General Hydroponics CocoTek Bale. It’s 5kg and contains a decent mix of coco pith and coco fibers. You don’t need to flush too much salt out of this product either, which is fantastic for first time growers.

Other Options for Expanded Coconut Coir Bags

B’Cuzz Coco 50L bags are another good option if you can’t find CANNA or Fox Farm products in your area. They have a partnership with a Sri Lankan coir producer, meaning they have full control over the production process as well. It’s another great coir option.

If You Want Coco Chips…

Roots Organics Coco Chips Block, 4.5-Kilogram
  • Has A Near Perfect Natural Ph Level For Optimum Nutrient...
  • Premium Aged And Composted For 24 Months And Meticulously...
  • Specifically Designed With Increased Fiber Content For An...
  • No Assembly Required

Go with this 4.5kg block of coco chips, or Coco Croutons in a 28-liter bag. These are a great addition to your garden if you need to add more aeration to your growing media and want to keep it in the coco coir family.

What Nutrients Do You Need for Coconut Coir?

Because coconut coir is an inert growing media, you will need to supplement your plants with additional nutrition. Remember — this is still hydroponic growing if you are only using coconut coir.

While many people say you need coco coir-specific nutrients, this isn’t absolutely necessary. You can get away with the standard General Hydroponics Flora series, a pH testing kit, and some Calimagic calcium + magnesium supplement.

If you want to mix it up and try something more coco coir specific, there are two options for you to try. These may be good options to pair with the matching coconut coir brand you’ve purchased:

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43 thoughts on “Coconut Coir: What It Is, How To Use It, And The Best Brands To Buy”

  1. Thank you for this informative article, I was wondering if I could grow bulbs in coco coir and add fertiliser such as banana water every so often?

  2. Hi. Great article. I will use this stuff next year. I want to use a soiless medium next year. I used a homemade mixture of soil and manure for varied pots the past 3 years and meh. It didn’t work well in my pots. Due to a lot of tree roots I have to plant everything in large pots instead of in the ground. I will have aprox 4, 75 gallon sheep troughs I will plant in. Looks like a good mix is 1 part coir, 2 part vermiculite/pearlite and 2 parts compost. Sound right? Will be using this for flowers, tomatoes, and peppers. Might add some slow release fertilizer. The coir appears to come in compressed disks. Any idea how much I would need to buy if I use it as 25% of my mixture for so many large pots (about 20 gallons per pot)? It seems the disks are sold per lb.

    • Sounds pretty good to me! Make sure you use a blended source of compost if possible. As far as the amount of coir, check the bricks to see their “expands to” size…then you can calculate the cubic feed appropriately.

  3. Especially, what kind of plants can be grown in the coco coir medium?
    which are countries having the most production and most consumption of coco-coir?

    • From a hydroponic perspective, any plant that does well in a hydroponic system can be grown in coconut coir. It’s inert, and your nutrients come from the solution you’ve got in your hydro setup. All it does is hold moisture against the plant’s roots to simulate soil.

      From a soil-based perspective, coconut coir is used to replace peat moss in a lot of potting mixes. Again, it’s inert and provides no nutrition value, but it’s great at moisture retention when blended into a growing medium. There are even pots made out of coconut coir which are designed to have the entire pot planted, becoming part of the soil!

      I’m not sure which countries have the most consumption of coconut coir, although I would assume the United States is a major consumer of agricultural coir.

      As for manufacturing, India and Sri Lanka produce almost 90% of the world’s coir products, but that includes rope and other coir uses as well as growing medium. I do know Mexico produces coir as a growing medium, and I believe that the UK has factories that process coir. Anywhere in the world that has access to coconuts can in theory produce coir.

  4. Hello, please can you tell me the best PH Level when using Coco, I’m using Coco professional at the moment and growing Chillies, but different people are telling me different PH Levels for my water.


  5. Great post!

    Note on grammar:

    Medium is the singular form, media is the plural form.

    So, I’ve used several media, or this one is the best medium I’ve found.


  6. Is it ok to do seeding in coco peat in coco coir pot 2″..means cocpeat will be 2 ” filled in the pot and seeding 1/4″ from top. below will be 1″ 3/4″(one three quarter).
    1.have we to moist the cocopeat a lot. then do seeding?
    2. do we keep water in tray through out… around 1″? we spray daily once or 2 times to keep it moistened?
    4. Temperature in the room should be maintained at..?
    5.Keep in dark for first 3 or 4 days ..right?? or till first leave shows up?? then keep near window for light sun.

  7. Hi Kevin,
    I’m growing flowers and vegetables in large livestock troughs and want to keep the soil more aerated. Would coco coir products be a good choice for that or should I stick with perlite or vermiculite?


  8. I’m a MESS! I started out with an aerogarden because I wanted to grow my own lettuces and greens…. only within the last couple of weeks have I realized I don’t HAVE to go that route – there are other options – been watching Khang Starr’s youtube videos on growing lettuce indoors hydroponically (they’re awesome videos) – but now I’m massively confused about starter plugs – I got some jiffy peat plugs and 1 out of 15 germinated and I die a little more inside every day when I see those hopeful plugs all expanded but nothing showing…. I have some rock wool I’m going to try next (already purchased) – and then I found your website and I’m really interested in the coconut coir – but don’t know if I can grow a whole head of lettuce with a starter plug – I know I can START the seedling off in the plug, but what about growing the whole thing? I’m a REAL newby to all this as you can probably tell, and ANY advice would be helpful. Once I’m successful in this, I want to post on to all my neighbors as I know a lot of them would be interested in growing hydroponically – I just want to have a successful crop first before I do my posting…. really want to grow my own salad greens, that’s my primary goal (lettuces/spinach/romaine etc.).
    I LOVE your website and have watched your videos too – thank you! Joanna

    • Hey Joanna – most people kill seedlings in Jiffy starters because they keep it too moist :). As far as the starter plugs, you can totally grow a plant to harvest in it, but the roots need water and nutrients from either soil or some kind of hydroponic system. The starter plug is just that – it provides some structure for the plant to hold on to early in life, and then you transplant it into a hydro or soil system.

  9. Thanks for the great post. It really was quite informative. I’m at a volunteering site in North Thailand, hoping to plant an abundance of fruits, flowers, and veggies.

    We are lucky in that we have our own coconut palms. I’m wondering if you think I should be cutting up the husked coconuts or leaving them in strips? As I said, I’m just trying to help the soil along, using what’s readily available.

  10. Hi Kevin, you talked about brown (dried) coir. My question is, is it possible to use the white coir from the green coconuts? thanks

    • I haven’t seen anyone who uses the white coir yet. I suspect the fibers may not be developed enough to do well in a gardening environment, but I’m not 100% sure!

  11. This is a great article, thanks! I have a question on using coco coir – would you recommend using this as a medium for growing microgreens? Since microgreens don’t require a nutrient rich medium, it should work, right?

    • Coir is a good additive for microgreens, especially because it’s sterile. The only issue you’ll run into is it holding too much water, so be careful not to overwater 🙂

  12. Hi there! I’m wanting to use coir as a soil amendment in my sandy soil for a veggie garden but I’m unsure how much to use..any suggestions for how much to till in per …idk sqaure foot?

    • Very hard to say w/o knowing your exact soil, but what I might do is dig out a specific amount of soil, add in coco coir until it’s the texture you want, and then multiply that out to figure out exactly how much to add to your soil in general.

      • Hey thanks for responding so quick! This is my first garden in Florida and it is not going well.
        Im in central florida…super sandy; “sugar sand” is what they call it out here. Ive been working on my beds through the winter; pullin out about a ton of those decorative white rocks. Battling fire ants. And ive mixed in about an inch of leaf/coffee grind compost to about 6inches down. Ive got the soil pH tested and its sitting at 6.8. But the texture is, well its just awful. Its not gunna grow a darn thing if i cant keep the moisture in. After I read your article i thought coir would be a good route to take before I try to plant anything.
        How far in should i be mixing in the coir down do you think?

        • This might to too late to be of use but I live in sydney australia where coatal or mountain areas are built on sandstone, so have the same problem (currently I’m west on a floodplain – oh the learning curve when I discovered my little bit of earth was fine compacted clay!)

          The best thing long term for both kinds of soil is lots and lots (much more than it sounds like you’re using) of well-rotted compost because in both cases there aren’t alot of nutrients available (not much in sand, locked into clay clumps).

          Just adding coir (for water rentention) doesn’t give plants what they need to grow unless you’re going the hydroponic route and adding it in the water (be very eary of this unless you have a closed system – excess nutrients spreading in watet are really bad for other ecosystems). Heaps of compost and manure and top with a good layer of mulch (esp something with lots of nitrogen like lucerne) will give you great soil over time. The mulch will also be good for attracting worms and other decomposers to help the process along.

          For the first couple of years I’d also add some good quality slow release fertiliser just to help everything get established.

          What are you intending to plant? Basic veges will grow in a foot of good soil, bushes and trees need alot more. Find out the maximum root length of the plants and add a good 6-10″. (Which might be a lot more digging than you wanted but is totally worth it).

          Of course, the other option, if you just want a lovely garden to sit in, is to find out what grows naturally in your area. Talk to a ranger from a local nature reserve and then shortlist plants you like. There should be native nurseries somewhere in florida to buy plants and seedlings from. If there’s any group nearby recolonising a similar ecosystem, they’d be good to talk to about suppliers. Occassionally local councils subsidise native plants, so check there too.

          For anyone with the opposite problem: I excavated about 80cm down in my clay (long narrow north-south alley between concete foundations so it was doable), ditched about 1/3 -1/2 clay and mixed the rest with compost, manure, commercial soil and a little gypsum to help break up the clay. I built the beds up by a foot to help with drainage and that last foot needed some coir to keep water in over the long hot summers, despite the mixed-in clay. Be careful excavating into clay – it will only work with very large beds, other wise you’re effectively creating a giant ditch that fills with water everytime it rains and stagnates there between times. This will kill off all but marsh plants very quickly!

  13. Common sense not to use coir as raw medium,,


    Even back in 1960’s freely was available,

    I’ve use it for growing tomatoes, cubits runner beans French beans carrots brassicas , dahlias, begonias, Asian lilies , potatoes, leeks, celery,

    Coir mixed in right way with well rotted straw compost, soil, and grit, +good general fertilizer

    is very stable,

    Not advisable to mix with horse/cow manure unless very old 3 to 4 years old

    manure from cows and horse very high back ground salt content ,

    due to actions of urine,

    Coir has its own salt background ,

    so not wise mix,

    Coir salt manageable by limiting what compost mix’s you use and limit coir to 35/40% of your mix’s,

    and I don’t care what is said never use coir it on its own,

    and never use the run off water from Coir wash’s

    when decompressing the raw product,

    AND ITS BEST LEFT to drain for 24 hours, then wash and drained again,

    You know when its right because it feels right,,

    light crumbly and just firm enough to hold together for few seconds
    mix with your compost and sand,

    and you grow prize plants if so minded

    with right plant stock, and seeds,

    I grow dahlias flowers 25cm+ big,

    and few things besides ,

    using coir as part of soil mixs

    as retains water in very hot weather,

    and as getting a bit old..

    don’t need the heavy digging,

    Using coir means I can pull winter tender tubers bulbs corms

    out of ground to store in winter,

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